The Fortress.

img_6715.jpg I have been dying to get up to the Fortress of Solitude since the weather hosed me 2 years ago.  The Fortress is the home of Kryptonite and Flex Luthor, both Tommy Caldwell testpieces.  2 years ago I was making trips to the cliff from Boulder to send Kryptonite until snow bombarded the entire state of Colorado.  The grade of Kryptonite is around 14C or D…I don’t know yet.  I was close on the route and was anticipating a send, but then the weather came, and that was that.  Anyway…Kryptonite is a route I am really eager to climb in the near future…I love this route, I love the cliff and the insanely arduous approach, the route is 100% natural, not ONE toyed with hold, just natural features man…how often do you come across that?!!  (About that Adam Stack claiming that Francois chipped a hold thing….I know the hold, Its out of the sequence too and in total junk rock…if he “chipped it” it was probably as easy as pulling a whobbly chockstone out of a fat crack…that whole drama was blown way outta proportion, my opinion)  It’s HARD too…Actually after trying it twice yesterday…I am beginning to think that Golden Direct is 9a….and that’s really cool for me man!  REALLY cool!!!  We will see if that stands though…I gotta send. img_6712.jpgimg_6713.jpg The entire effort to climb at the Fortress is serious.  It takes an hour to hike and thats a SOLID HOUR…no joke.  This time of year is not really the optimal season for climbing up there, but man, when you are motivated…    The draw backs are:  you hike in the sun and that zaps your ass like an energy-sapping-son-of-a-bi*@h, ALL the warm-ups are in the sun this time of year, so warming up is only done on anything in the shade (Kryptonite), there is absolute silence up there and ALL you hear is flies, bees and any other flying bug, if there is ANY accident at all…you are screwed…and thats real…SCREWED.  The cliff is No-Mans-Land and that makes it pretty adventurous, little things are a big deal out there….it’s a nice escape from the Rifle Canyon routine. img_6790.jpgimg_6738.jpgIt is still a little hot up there….the cliff is SO steep that it shades itself, but the shade is about 4 feet from you when you are chilling at the base.  We chilled a lot too…after the hike you need to recover, after attempts on the routes, you need to chill and recover…and with the sun near, you just move kinda slow… The air is warm and dry, for a route this hard I think cooler air will help a lot…So I will wait.  I am now obsessed once again.  I love rock climbing!!!!    fortmerge.jpg  

5 Comments

  1. Posted August 1, 2008 at 1:48 pm | Permalink

    I thought Yuji and Francois “comfortized” some hold on the route… or was that another Fortress line?
    Regardless… badass to say the least.

  2. Shylo
    Posted August 1, 2008 at 4:22 pm | Permalink

    Joe and Collete,

    Good luck on your quest! That cliff looks rad. Send those rigs.

  3. brian solano
    Posted August 1, 2008 at 6:35 pm | Permalink

    Word up! The fortress is dope. Any experience for sure. See ya next week…

  4. matt
    Posted August 4, 2008 at 6:04 am | Permalink

    that place looks awesome, it’s a shame there’s only like 10 of those in the US.

  5. Posted August 4, 2008 at 1:45 pm | Permalink

    Love the Fortress. Love. Quiet, beautiful, remote, no rednecks like in Rifle….

    Can’t wait to get back there. Go, go, go! Climb hard!

2 Trackbacks

  1. By News & Notes - 8/4/2008 | Climbing Narcissist on August 4, 2008 at 9:09 am

    [...] Kinder has started to get psyched on making the hike up to Colorado’s Fortress of Solitude crag with the intention of repeating Tommy Caldwell’s [...]

  2. By Summer Sends - News From All Over! « Dream in Vertical on September 22, 2008 at 12:17 pm

    [...] Daniel and Joe have also been spending some time at The Fortress in Colorado. Dave made the 4th ascent and Joe and Daniel are close behind.  I believe Pringle will [...]

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