SO PSYCHED…SO DONE….. Damn.
Well after 6 solid days of work, 6 days of trying like hell sussing, linking, falling, sucking, progressing, obsessing….Falling in total LOVE….I sent.I climbed the First Ascent of Southern Smoke and I am going to suggest 8c+ (5.14c). It is a style of complete resistance and very little resting. The difficulty stands far beyond most 14b routes I have done and the amount of time to climb this and even the amount of time to get semi-FAR tells me this is a damn hard route.
Also….for the record, its my style.
Brad Weaver and I have tried this route together and yesterday was one of the ONLY good days in terms of weather. It has been cold and we have dealt HARD. The past days on the route were the inevitable outcome (going numb). We decided we would take two days of rest and nail down the ONE nice day, which was about 50 degrees and sunny. PERFECT.
I was stressed, and so was Brad. Today the weather is SHIT, and it will remain shit for a few more days. But, like I have said in the past I get lucky with pressure. My first try I fell off going to the last hold…DESPARATE….I was pumped outta my brain and red-lining. I screamed, cursed, and lowered…I was sincerely worried about this happening again… Falling ANYwhere on this route is possible and honestly the higher you get, the more of a chance you have to fall. And the last move, being pumped, is REAL DEAL…
Brad went…second go he fell off the last move…”NO WAY!!!!” I kept saying. I was worried, man…junk weather and that day being the only one to really utilize….christ!
Next try, I killed to the top, everything felt a little harder, but just went with it. I lined up for the last holds and was 1% less pumped…no joke. I shot my hand up with ALL the strength I had left and stuck…Grabbed the jug and SCREAMED!!!! SOOOOOO PSYCHED!!!!!
It is done….Southern Smoke is finished and Brad will likely do it Wed, or Thurs. One of the greatest routes here and a solid-difficult line. I am very pleased.
Today, we went to climb, but it was raining like a bastard…So, I got all Dani Andrada and went bolting…Now a new project is on board…WHUUUUUTTTT!!!!!
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