Blabbin Away Doods

 

The rain came and got a lotta holds wet, Novena Enmienda is taking a RAIN CHECK! HAHA!!  Its funny but not really funny. Thinking about it again its ok because the notion to change up the ambiance was necessary, lots of time spent in Santa Linya, lotta orange stone, getting bored of the same warm-ups, same tired muscles, the same rhythm of a day kinda freaks me out.  I know Dave is making fun of me right now.  I am seriously not used to a schedule I have now realized.  Like there isn’t one.  I think the whole idea freaks me out.  I have FOAS… Fear-Of-A-Schedule and it’s ok because YOLO.  LONELEY ISLAND!!!  Oh dude, has anyone seen that new video with the Lonely Island?!!  HILARIOUS!!  We ate McDonalds the other day.  Its nice to see that sorta thing on those days I am missing the USA and need a dose of my friends like Dave, Jon, Andrew, hommies who matter. I think its been nearly 4 years since I was at the dentist and like OOOH MAN!   I got Colette and I am just glad Chris is here man and that is for real, when you are in a foreign country for this long your brain changes a little bit in terms of what is important.  My people are important.  Like right now that new lense or that whatever have no value.  Although that Ziess 35mm is TIGHT.  Staying stimulated has been key as my whole game has been kinda flipping out but it’s not so hard because we just go to ANDORA on a total freak mission for no reason one day and end up sitting in 3 hours of traffic and yeah it was a Sunday so why didn’t that occur to us?  It was cool seeing the David Gambus wall however… tight as fuk.  Tufas, solid, and a little wet.  Turds!  Esclatamasters is wet and will stay wet for sure… but yo that thing sounds a little more 8c+ de la gente… oh yeah Oliana is mint right now and that’s all I really care about, but on the real Joe Blau is not really doing it for me like for real an 8c+ nemesis route is taking me as much effort as a 9a+ would likely take and its a sick line and I should climb it because I bolted the joint, but dang its getting boring with all the effort and falling.  First ascents with broken holds is the most retarded thing I have ever heard.  Sup with that?  How is it so important?  FA is a one time deal.  Next day up there I am running up and putting draws on Power Inverter.  Yeah.  Adam and Chris both boast about that one and it sounds seriously cool with those non-hold-grey-volumes of rock that looks like there is just nothing to grab and sounds physical and I am on that kinda tip.  I did Tensleep for a bit and sure, but no thanks.  Maybe I should bolt something.  My charger is fucked too so damn.  Maybe I can borrow Black Tooth’s… That new version of iTunes SUCKS.  Get that Mestizo mix.  LIKEY. Each day I see those three geese out the window and it makes me feel great.  I forgot how to say Geese in Spanish, but Pato is duck so there.  Stability.  Funny how renting a car has been so cheap.  YOLO POLO. Its only half way through right now and well… maybe its been a lull.  Primo is back and kept tweakin his cuerpo yesterday it was kinda funny and then we went to his Furganetta for some cervesas which was great for a little Spanish practice.  Not easy but thats whats cool about it.  Spanish people are my favorite humans on the planet.  Most anyway.  People up in our crib is not so conducive to the idea of speaking Spanish as the whole rhythm gets jacked up and attention gets diverted.  I think we are heading to Lleida in a minute for some city action, which is cool cuz half the time we go we still get lost.  So many rancid cats runnin round I seriously don’t get how people think they are cute.  Dirty lil freaks that eat raw rotting meat out of dumpsters is hardly cute.  I have seen one chowing down on a wrapper with chocolate still on it and the thing was literally eating  the paper.  DOOD!  We do get lost though, how does that seriously still happen?  Volkswagon Polo doods.  Both my cars in the USA are in storage and dang… one we forgot to disconnect the battery! Its dead and maybe I should sell it, but that booming sounds system is something I will miss…. hard to part with that.  New headphones on the way.  Some bastard is thoroughly using em after he pulled em out of the front seat pocket on taht last plane. HAHAHAH!!!  We are honed in on this stuff.  JT would be like CMON SON! But that CMON son thing is played.  Sportiva got a clothing line now and I am like WHOOAH colorful.  Emily comes this week and so does Beth and Randy who I haven’t seen in like 10 years!  Dang!  Randy is a footwork masterblaster.  Miura VS all the way these days.  New levels of climbing.   Andrew took it down with that job thing.  Flipping the script then getting the ball put in his corner, propper man! Kinda freaky shit about the 18 dead bodies outside of Potrero Chico huh? Like Mexico is OFF MY LIST for real and damn… there are like some impressive cliffs down there, but no thanks I kinda like my head on my body.  Chad you loco son!  Dave G!  WHUSSUP MAN!?!??!  You sponsored by Adidas too?!?!?  Yeah man… growing a beard and it itches like a bastard but thats the stage ya gotta get through which is hilarious cuz whats the point? HA!  Yeah right.  Getting used to taking big ass falls and not even caring which is more of a pain in the ass for getting back up to the draw you fell on.  Like seriously do people walk the rope a lot?  It works and is useful, but awkward and kinda old school like heel hooking.  Fuck the Sytsem, Novena Enmienda, Joe Blau, Papichulo, Power Inverter, Duele, and maybe some pegues on Analogica with the Seleccio start?  YO GABRI!!  WHERE YOU AT YOU RED HEADED ITALIAN!?!?!?!  Fuckin a got my hands full… NINE AYE ALL DAY!  Even some PLUS in there cuz we got time.  Are we gonna buy a house here?  Naw, rent.  The South is whassup tho.  Now is Catalunya tomorrow will be Andalucia and mark my words.  Lifes good babblebabbbblebabble………………….

 

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The Happs

There isn’t a ton to throw your way in terms of sends, crazy travels, videos or much else so I am going throw up some photos… usually I like blogs with photos anyway and that is what I try to relay to my viewers.  Thanks everyone to checking in and have an awesome week!!!!!!!!!

 

 

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Climb In Peace Housing Accommodations

My good friend Christian Lamiel (yes that means “honey”) has started an AWESOME business in regards to helping you find the most convenient of living accommodations while in Catalunya.  The best sport-climbing in the world exists here and this is one way you can set up your stay with ease.  From weeks to months.  From singles to a groups it is all available.

Take a look if you are interested.  Christian is very prompt with responding to emails and is eager to help you out… So rad.

Website here.

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The New Levels

Beta freak show.

Colette and I have visited the crag of Santa Linya on and off for years.  One of my favorite things to do as a climber is revisit spots you have tested routes previously.  I have always been in love with the style of this place and its inspired me since the first time I read about it online.  I remember hearing about the activity of Dani Andrada putting up 9b routes, the size of this cave, and all the potential routes.  For me this was a new moment in climbing.  Climbers from all over Europe started making more trips to the Lleida area for the new 8c+ routes and it became the birth of the modern Catalunya craze.

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I SENT MY PJ!!!!!!!!!!

After falling 5 times from the last move and literally lapping a hard 8c+… I am done.  Analogica Natural Left.  I couldn’t be happier.

Thanks to Manabu Yoneyama and Carlos Perez for the photos.

 

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Tennessee Tweakin’

Happy NEW YEAR YA’LL!!!!!!!!!!!!  2012 was a great one for me personally (9a routes, lots of travel, success with sponsors, all the good sh*t) and I hope many others can say the same.  Now lets have it out with 2013 A MUERTE!  Yes… it will surely be as good and better than this year.

I would like to bring in the New Year with a little video I call Tennessee Tweakin’ which is not for sponsors, not for any company or anything other than the reason to make a cool video the way I want to do it.  This is my style right now and I am proud of this one.  I love climbing and I love art.  What more can I say?

Thanks for checking in everyone!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

TennesseeTweakin’ from Joe Kinder on Vimeo.

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