OH MY GOD!!!! VERY happy right now..SO pleased. It seems as though I always get lucky when it becomes the LAST minute…I swear. Today I sent Kryptonite 5.14d up at the Fortress Of Solitude in Colorado. This is a HUGE send for me and I couldn’t be happier. I tried the line two years ago in the winter and failed. Since Dave and Daniel started hanging out…I was super adamant about trying this line as it was one of my goals for the year. The cliff is a temperamental kind of place. With the sun becoming lower every day…this time of year gets hard. The winter is good too, but only in the sun, and THE HIKE…..THE HIKE is something that makes you really feel like you “did something” that day. Basically, I would leave for the cliff around 1pm (usually later), drive an hour, hike an hour then warm up ON the route…there are NO warm-ups there. This place sincerely takes an effort….THEN…2-3 goes was about all you got in 4 hours of climbing. KINDA rushed. The only spot to really chill up there is on a ledge, and the only other creatures up there were the birds…which I have MAD respect for.
Today Colette hiked up with me. I had ONE day to try the route before I leave for the Noreaster (which is gonna be baller!). The day I get home here in Colorado is a packing day, because we are OUT of our crib and back on the road. SO…sending today….COULDN’T have been better timed.
First try I fell off mid crux….I was pissed, yelled and got kinda bummed for about 20 minutes….stressed really, and just OVER falling in the same spot…REALLY over it.
Second try I fell going for the outtro jug…..yeah…a complete punt move….absolutely bullshit!!!! I was psyched with 2 moves of progression, but STILL pissed and not very happy. I was tired after this and didn’t really feel like trying again. I was about to admit defeat….just SUCK it all up like I had all the other days…..just be cool with it.
Right before dark…I was still tired, but just decided to try once more….the birds were all going crazy and the air was all nice and cool…
It was really like one of those blurs or no thinking…we have all heard it before and likely been there. I remember the crux and it feeling hideously hard, I grabbed the outtro jug, barely, and took a chance with some junk foot to get to the resting jug…..it worked.
I recovered like HELL too man….I was SO pleased, huffing and puffing and my brain screaming bloody murder…..I chilled my ass out and shook….maybe like 3-4 minutes….prepared the brain again and dashed off to the anchor…a techy 13b outtro. Believe me when I say this…you CAN fall on ANY of these moves…it is in a way, LIKELY to fall on these moves. BUT, I made it. GOOD CHRIST!!!!! I screamed and yelled, and smiled like a bastard…..I still have the buzz….dang!
MAN….climbing doesn’t get better than that man…. I love rock climbing and I try like hell in this game. Kryptonite was a HUGE goal for me and it is complete. Now I can move on and love it.
Off to the Noreaster tomorrow…psyched to ball with Dave G, Chirs S, Daniel W, Ethan P, Pete K, my EMS crew, and all in the place where I GREW up climbing. Funny huh?
PSYCHED!!!! Outty….
-
Pages
Important People
- Amanda Berezowski
- Andrew Bisharate
- Andrew Burr
- BASSFORYOURFACE!
- Boulderrausch
- Brian Solano
- Chad Greedy
- Chris Shulte
- Climbing Narc
- COLETTE!!!!
- Crested Butte Real Estate
- Dan Lubbers
- Dan Yagmin
- Desert Rat Pro
- Ethan
- GREGORY PACKS’ Blog
- Idaho Bouldering
- Isaac Caldiero
- Jimmy Webb
- Joe Iurato
- Jon Glassberg
- Keith Ladzinski
- Misty Murhphy
- Mountains and Water
- Odub
- Paul Dusatko
- Pete Vintoniv
- Rock and Ice
- So Ill Holds
- Tim Kemple
- Timy Fairfield’s
14 Comments
Can feel your psyche - big congrats!
nice work!
Fuckin nice work!
I’m all about the third-burn send! Great job, Joe! I like your positive outlook. Enjoy your homecoming…
Noice dude, but I just sent a 12c at the Narrows on toprope
did you used the chipped hold? hahaha.
YeAH!!! You are such a superstar!
SO Proud! Way to push it dude! Can you say China Beach?
Congrats man, looks like an amazing route - all that remains is for you to give someone all the beta so they can downgrade it to 8c+
Rad! I know that hike alone is a killer, good effort! Out of curiosity, what’s your take on the “suspicious pocket” supposedly drilled mid crux sometime after Tommy’s FA?
right on…
Big up homie!
Holler when you are east.
WAY TO GO JOE! Love this post. Your descriptions…like poetry. 5.14d….man, you rock! Have fun back east. See you at Momentum sometime.
Oh yeah…sweet pictures.
OH YEAH!
One Trackback
[...] clinic will be called Sending. Ha ha. Although Joe did just send (nailed the 5.14d route Kryptonite in Colorado right before getting on the plane to head to the weekend event), his clinic is really [...]