Its been a few weeks since I was just climbing. I have honestly been traveling and doing the other random things for the past two weeks so climbing and ONLY climbing has been a little secondary. We took a day after a serious day of bolting that kicked my ass. Bolting routes is MAJOR work man… SO much respect to Dani Andrada who will bolt a route, clean it a little, and then SEND it in the same day and sandbag it at 8c!!! That really does happen.
Jorge Visser on his PJ.
The New Development. "666 Clubhouse"
We went to the Hurricave in our Backyard and I sampled one of my projects to line up for a send. The next day to the good ol’ Black and Tan Wall. Colette and I both have projects there that are basically lifetimers. No kidding either. For me the Black and Tan Project has been on my list for 4 years or so. It is an 8b boulder problem to 13+. The boulder prob is a HUGE one mover. Which to me is the most annoying kind of style ever! I try avoid the one mover boulder problems or routes… I would LOVE to climb this thing one day. I have put in SO many days for some reason and it is the same scenario every time. I fall on the same move and thats it. I haven’t done the move for 2 years or so either so damn… its just like that. I would love for ANYONE psyched on this kinda thing to do it. It is “THE Black and Tan Project” and Dave G, Eithan P, Daniel W, Jon Cardwell, and more have tried it. Sooo…. ????? Christ this thing is hard!!!
The Black And Tan Project
Yup...
I was really excited to watch Pete Kamitses on my old route Old World Luluby 8b+. This is one of the best in the area and I was impressed with Pete’s second try effort. Kill son!
Colette has a couple of pj’s there as well and she will send both likely so at least there are SOME people on the right path!
Colette on Sniffing Glue 8a+
Smoking Drum. One of the best 7c+/8a EVERRRRR!!!!
Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting,Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting, Climbing, bolting…….. WHAT IMA BOUT!!!!!
7 Comments
Kamitses crushing everywhere! Yeeah Pete! This stuff looks rad Joe, can’t wait to climb out there again.
Great blog, always great to see STOKED climbers! Just not cool with the blasphemy, it’s offensive to some.
Looks sick! How long is the hike to the “Clubhouse”?
Joe, or anyone else familiar with the Black and Tan: if you had one week to work on either Sniffing Glue or Campus Boy, what’s a better route?
Keith. Campus boy is less in quality than Sniffing Glue. I think most would agree. CB is a great route man. You get a hard couple of cruxes and it goes to the top. You will love this one… DO IT MAN!
The Clubhouse is about 10 minutes man… behind our house here!!!!
Like the fotos!! The one of Jorge is sick!!!!