Yesterday proved to be a great day. The weather was in the low 80s in St. George which usually means perfection up at the Cathedral. Cardeck and I polished off our projects on some back to back steez.
Usual morning....
Usual Morning, FaceBOOOOOOOK, taking OVER!...
I had been working the piss out of Unforgivable for the past 8 days climbing at the Cathedral. I bolted this line about a month or so ago, prepped it, and sussed all the moves out. At first I was REALLY overwhelmed with the difficulty and the style. It starts with a really explosive boulder problem to sustained crimps and fatiguing climbing, then gains an odd top crux around V9 or 10. I fell off the outtro moves 5 times or so and had to skip clips that made it all sketchy. LOTTA days and LOTS of love put into this one. It was a great experience to bolt and climb something.
Cardeck sending Slaughterhouse 5
Cardeck after the takedown...
Daniel got the first ascent last week. STRONG robot kid took it down second go….we all consider the 8c/8c+ to be relevant for this one. For me it is SURELY 8c+, and for Daniel it is 8c…I guess… Jon and Daniel both climbed Slaughter House 5 for the first ascents after a hold broke in the crux. To me it is still around 8c, not much different than it was, but for them its 8c+….just goes to show…grades are a GREAT conversational topic. Different for everyone.
Daniel on Unforgivble
Daniel on the Connection into Slaughterhouse 5
New project in effect!
ShipaDANG!!!
NOW…the best part of completing Unforgivable is that the link into Slaughterhouse 5 is on deck….9a? 9a+? 9b? 9c???? OH MAN….it’s surely do-able….and SUPER exciting to have this challenge next. ULTRA fitness route with the ILLEST no FRILLS climbing….it REALLY DOES NOT…get…better…than THIS!!!
I LOVE ROCK CLIMBING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10 Comments
He did it second go? How strong is this guy? Get him bolting things, it might slow him up.
And two, what’s with the euro grades? Is it a side effect of 8a.nu that people are now conversing in french grades outside Europe?
RED LABEL REPRESENT!! You guys should hook up a JW sponsorship and get set up with some blue label.
looks like you guys are continuing to take it down! the enthusiasm is contagious. cheers!
I thought you put Slaughterhouse as 8c/+…and if a hold broke in the crux, bigger or smaller now…intriguing.
Whats D. Graham up to?
Nice post Joey. Much psych and motivation. Holding it down! Crushing it in the Southwest. Hang whatever grade you want - euro or otherwise, the spray is universal, we all know the conversions.
Curious….the crux got harder….I linked into it pretty damn far today from the Unforgivable start…almost did it actually. BUT….the hold is GONE in the crux and the route is a bit harder.
ch…Dave has been mellowing, climbing this and that, not taking anything to seriously…..keeping it real with motivation and encouragement…. Its a good state for him.
and YES…the Euro grading system is standard in the USA as well…..5. this 8 that….whaddever. Educate up.
Sweetness, fellas.
If you’re really with Dave, let him know that his New England followers want to know why he’s fallen off the radar lately. Here in RI we love our New England brethren. Good to see you two climbing together, too.
Keep it real guys, and keep pulling hard.
Thanks for the review!
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