The Road to the Nor’easter 2010: Stencil Art with Joe Iurato from NE2C on Vimeo.

The highlight of the end here was sending the Doomsday Project at the French Cattle Ranch. Kevin Wilkinson and Ally Rainey bolted this beauty. All blue and ALL tech. I did it third go and with a crowd below that got me stoked…. Thanks for the route Ally and Kevin… PERFECTION!!!!

New route I sent at the FCR... another 14a called Doomsday.

Doomsday 14a

Colette sent Espinada 12d at the FCR as well... bastard top bit is known to spit climbers off left and right.

Photo from Lawrence and Allysa

We made a mission to video Nick Martino on his newest bolted line called Third Infadelas or something? 13b… NICE LINE Nick… Stand by for the video shot with my T2i… Always PSYCHED!!!!

Nick winging off....

Steeeeeaks.

Nick Martino and the burrito

Nick Colette and Nick....

The Road to the Nor’easter: Introduction from NE2C on Vimeo.

Still having an amazing time here. Alli Rainey’s house is full of some great folks, we cook, drink and share stories of the climbing day at night. Wake up nice and late and leave to go climbing around 1pm. My sort of pace. Here are some photos to enjoy. I got my new camera back and am very pleased. As well I am copping some amazing footage with this rig. I swear… SLR Vids are THE new jam…. All the lens styles and focal points change the visual stimulation entirely. Stand by….

Alli sent her project at the FCR the other day… a vert 14a rig that starts on Sky Pilot 13d and ends on a James Litz route…. Well done Alli!!!! And big up to Lawrence for taking down his route Super Mama… thing sounds HEINOUS MAN!!!! Well done yall…

Colette, Alyssa, and Lawrence.

Sending The Incredible Horse Cock 13d... a one-mover I cannot recommend.

photos from Nick.

Vanilla Wafer

Nick Martino... Always Psyched.

I have however started bolting at a new area and am very stoked. It is a bit hot for climbing there right now so bolting will be the name of the game. The cave is the main spot for now, but there are other walls and an entire band of wall to climb and bolt for the future of Tensleep. This is major to me and now puts the area into the “Real Deal” category. The hike is moderate and the walls are steep… NEW STUFF!!!!

I sent a James Litz route the other day called F’d In The A. I think he suggested or others suggested 14b for this rig. I did it in four tries one afternoon. It felt great to take something down so fast. I am confused as to how hard the route is. Have I gotten stronger? Does this style now fit me? Am I just comfortable and stronger? I don’t know… still confused, but psyched as ever… We will stay till the end of the month… WORD!

Todd on Helion.

F'd In The A 14b?

Dave Hume almost flashing The Incredible Horse Cock 13d.

Colette on Kyber Space 13a/b

Always.

My addition. They Wyoming Wave 12a.

Dave Hume on 13b

Marty doggin out one of the rigs on Mondo.

We took a little trip to Lander for the International Climber’s Festival. It was a quick in and out trip. But a great little stint. Events are one of the best places to meet up with the “Fam” and see friends. Sterling Rope was one of the sponsors and it was great to be there representing them.

Dave, Kevin, Colette, Odub, Anna Lisa.

Colette and Jason

After Colette gave a clinic and we hung out at the cliff most of the day we decided to blow off the last party and head back to the hood here for a real day of climbing. It basically came about when we watched BJ Tilden on his latest project at Wild Iris. My head spun with psyche and the need to send something cool took over. His pj is a link between a 13b and a 13d. Pocket stabs and some big ass moves all in a resistant style, with no resting. It looked SO dope that I keep thinking about it now. (I gotta get back there to give it a whirl.) The climbing here is nothing like that… it is all standing, finessing, and for me doesn’t revolve around strength other than your fingers. It’s cool but not so physical. Which has me determined to bolt some new and rad things for the area.

Colette patiently belaying during her clinic.

Top Rope Madness!

Odub on 13c

Bj n Ronnie

Bj on his DOPE pj.

Heading OUT!

We arrived back in Ten Sleep to a crew of people at Alli’s house. And yes… we got MORE crunk…

....and we got creative.

...and More creative n Crunk!

We ventured off to find “The Cave” that I have heard about over and over. Kevin Wilkinson has one route up there and there are a TON more to equip. I spoke on the phone with him last night and got the beta. Our first attempt at finding was a failure. Fun but a failure. Tomorrow I will venture back out to find this massive ampitheatre, take photos and if all it is good… GET THINGS GOING!!!!!

off to find The Cave.

Not it either...

Thanks for reading everyone… peace from the Vertical Kingdom.

This has truly been a cultural experience. I had no idea what I was getting into when we decided to head up to Wyoming. Apparently the 4th of July in this town is a big deal and being a small town with not much going on, the locals and visitors know how to party. They square dance, have rodeos, drink a lot of beer.

Picture this. Cowboys (REAL ones, totally legit and hardcore) throwing their women around while a country band plays. Fireworks shooting every-which-way. Dudes wearing spurs on their boots and looking tougher than thugs in the hood. No joke, this is where we are. Ten Sleep, Wyoming. As well, everyone has the highest respect for USA. They rock US flag print everything. I saw this one guy at the public pool wearing USA swim-shorts, a shirt with a USA flag on it, and toting around a USA towel all at once… C’MON SON!!!!…. I wish I had my camera.… total Americana is what I call it.

Nuthin 13d

12d

Climibng? Always. It has been good as we have now gotten the style figured out. I am pretty sure this place will make me weak. Simply because you are basically just standing the whole time. There isn’t much core to be used and I really have not gotten a major pump even on a 13d… This place is your tech-tiny-hold climbing and if you enjoy standing on your feet a lot… it’s for you. There are a LOT of walls with different styles as well with holds ranging from small to medium, hikes ranging from dreadful to mini, and the expanses of cliffs throughout the canyon will blow your mind. Once again… this place is legit. We are planning on posting up here for a while still and there is always something to look forward to. We have word on some really steep caves to start bolting as well…. THAT is what I am stoked for.

I bolted my first route here yesterday as well… I have to clean it up a little and then set it free…. I already have a name for it as well. It’s called The “Wyoming Wave”. This is in reference to all the locals and good ol’ boys here. They wave at you and you wave back, that’s the deal. It’s basically rude if you don’t wave. As well, the feature is a sort of wave and fits perfectly.

MUTTON BUSTIN

My first Rodeo

Community is always a large part of what makes up a climbing area and this place has been a perfect example of a strong crew. Aaron Huey, Alli Rainey, Charlie, Kevin Wilkinson, and the others I haven’t met yet have made this cliff what it is today… a real destination with ZERO access issues and a LOT of rock. Lots of respect.

Aaron Huey

Off to go climbing… more to come from Ten Sleep….

My 50mm lense. SO tight.

This place is insane and I am not lying. It reminds me of Gorge Du Tarn or France and Margalef of Spain. Yeah… it really is that sick. The canyon is LOADED with rock and very little is bolted. Understandably so when you understand the span of stone. There are canyons upon canyons and it seems to just go and GO!

For me it is my anti-style. Vertical, techy, not so steep and a lot of shitty holds. It’s good and bad ya know? It teaches me to be a little more patient and not really be concerned with difficulty and number scale. We are planning on staying here for a bit and Ali Rainey is more than cool for hooking us up the way she has. MUCH respect and graciousness to her.

Alli on her pj... 14a linky thang.

It is just getting started so stand by. We have had two days climbing and I would just call them some “warm-up” days. I got my drill a LOAD of bolts, and just ordered some more edging shoes… it’s ON!

Check my write up in La Sportiva Live’s page… STOKED! CLICK HERE!!!