Colette returned from the UK and on the way up to Seattle to pick her up from the airport I changed the plans again. We had an idea of heading back to Little Si and trying again (as well as collecting draws that I am almost positive have been stolen by now). The plan just didn’t get me psyched and the humidity was not exactly something to look forward too either. But seriously, how can you even think of escaping it up here in the NW. The idea of completing this project at the Rat Cave became a real motivation, and I love that feeling. After completing Freakshow 8b+ I slammed in a couple of bolts to link-up the best routes on the wall. I know, I know, I know… LINK UPS are LAME to some people! BUT…. I love em… LOVE THEM and this one is the full on Andrada-style-burl-dog-necessity. The idea was to tackle the crux of a 13c-Freakshow’s crux-and a 13b’s exit crux up at the top. I got the bolts in, tried the route a muerte, and even got close the first round of attempts… BALL ERR. Read the last post about my near-death-experience-fall. FREAKY…
AND… stay tuned for a bit of video of this route in my Eastern Mountain Sports North West vid series… yup.
I scooped Colette and stated we were heading right back to Portland from the airport. She was cool with the idea thankfully and we did the 3+ hour drive through the hellish traffic once again.
The next day we warmed up and I banged the route out with the quickness. I love it when sheer motivation makes the send happen and you barely half to try. The rest of the day was filled with completing other 5.13′s on the wall and relishing in the feeling of accomplishment. The route is called Freaky Deeky and is around 8c. Pure power resistance climbing on black and yellow rock for about 40 moves. DAMN RIGHT!!! The Rat Cave hooked me up on so many ways and I really needed that. That style is one of my favorites and all of you folks I met at the cave made my experience there awesome. Thank you so much.
Portland alone is one of the coolest towns and surely makes you wanna get some tattoos and a plaid shirt. The coffee spots, Voodoo doughnuts, amazing local food was all so original and satisfying. I could totally live there if there were more cliffs… dang.
We wrapped up some filming around town, shot vid at the Rat Cave (all for our Eastern Mountain Sports series, peep em here), and had another great session climbing with the hommie Stephen Mienhold. Stephen is living in Portland and I had no clue he was there until he hit me up to go climbing. The dude is strong and seriously needs to send the state of Oregon.
Our last two days of climbing have been spent at the mythical Equinox. I will not explain where this cliff is so please don’t email, message, call, or text me… ask someone else. All I will say is that this place is special. Like… REALLY special… I tried basically every route there and sent maybe 5 or so. Jonathan Siegrist’s route Voodoo is one of the raddest routes I have tried on the trip and I would love to return for it… we will see however. The Bow Valley of Canada awaits….
Off to Colorado and Utah tomorrow…. it never stops. EVER.