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The Balance

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The balance of bolting routes and climbing is a challenge sometimes. Two solid climbing days on with a day of bolting has been the pattern and it works pretty well. Putting up new routes is cross training and I gotta say… its REALLY is training. It works abs, shoulders, core, your entire body really and all in the way that’s opposite to climbing. Not bad huh? Who would have thought that the two endeavors would work simultaneously in so many ways. Also, the psyche is at a new level… New routes to create assures a sheer motivation that is honestly different than just having a project to do. Its a lot more selfless which feels a lot different from what climbers are accustomed to. It opens doors, allows you to see others enjoy your work and craft, and makes the possibilities of new climbing endless!! Im just really psyched on this stuff and think I’m obsessed…. dang. No lie… I can’t sleep at night with all of these lines to bolt…
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Isaac punting on Captain Fantastic 13c.

Isaac punting on Captain Fantastic 13c.

With all of the time in the world I still only have enough time to climb on the important stuff… which is my project in the back. Its a great style because you can get further and further with each quality go. I got a high-point yesterday which was 5 moves from the end. That really sounds like a lot huh? It is. It’s a long series of muscley, powerful moves in the horizontal terrain. The bottom isn’t an issue anymore and that’s great to have dealt with… I got in three burns yesterday with Lauren and MAN!…. that made for a DANG satisfying day. This route seems like the more you try it, the more fitness you gain to climb all the way through. I really am stoked on this line and I know it’s hard. I have an idea of a grade, but don’t know until its complete. REALLY difficult routes take me a lot of grinding…. we will see….
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The Africanized Bees.... bastards.

The Africanized Bees.... bastards.

  • fred Vionnet - looking forward you send your project!

  • MArtin Stranik - Really cool and nice line, send it!;) will be some clip?:)

  • Gage - Great pics man! Im looking forward to checking out this Hurricave. Great Site too! very inspirational! Way to live your passion man.

  • Joe - Do you know where I can get some info on the meat market wall and other cathedral/wailing wall areas?

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