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50 Words’ Bolts Smashed.

After taking a well needed rest day I was WELL ready and VERY prepared mentally and physically to send my project (“50 Words Right”).  After about 4 days of attempts and getting close….The feelings for this route were strong and emotional.  I gotta say man…in my later years as a rock climber, climbing is very emotional for me.  Meaning…there is lots of love involved.  Colette claims this is the way I always am…but…I digress.  I show to the cliff yesterday with my friend Pete Kamitses.  I was super excited to show Pete the route and complete it.  As we walked up to the cliff, Nick Duttle, Adam Taylor and others were warming up.  We soon learned that Adam Taylor took a hammer to the bolt hangers on “50 Words Right” the night before.  For what reason I am still not sure.  He claimed “his draws were stolen 7 times and he was sick of it”, “‘THEY’ don’t  count it”, and “it will never happen again”…All expressed in a very aggresive and agitated way.  It was very apparent that Adam Taylor had some built up anger over the fact that the right variation exists.img_0234.jpg Note: The history of 50 Words For Pump goes like this…..The route was bolted years ago and stood as a very challenging project.  Michael Fussilier made the first ascent about a year ago.  During this stint, another sequence was realized to the right (“50 Words Right”).  This variant is completely different crux and moves all together.  Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Dani Andrada, Antoni LeMiche and others feel and state that this line is more likely the logical way to climb the route.  Mike Doyle got permission from the route’s equipper as well as Michael Fussillier to add two bolts so that the right variation(“50 Words Right”) could be entertained. img_0240.jpgFrom what I have gathered he has been working on 50 Words For Pump (the original and LEFT line) for some time now.  During his spastic explanation on why he hammered the bolt hangers on “50 Words Right,” it was apparent that he feels it should not exist.  And claimed that it “doesn’t count”.  The right variation(50 Words Right) is  NOW called “50 Words for DRAMA” is the way 4 people have climbed it.  Stated to be the “logical line” and is a GREAT series of moves.   It is it’s own line, it is a separate line and should be respected in this way.  A climber goes at the left variant with a completely different mentality than the right, AS WELL…a climber attempts the sequence on the RIGHT with a completely different mentality than the method on the left.  DIFFERENT LINES!!!!  This is the main concept I would like to emphasize here…   img_0241.jpg He continued to deny that the sequence on the right should exist.  The vibe at the cliff was VERY intense, very discomforting and honestly one of the worst days I have ever had climbing.  I arrived psyched and was soon completely demoralized as a climber projecting a route.  The brash act of smashing the bolts and downplaying the quality and difficulty of the route was expressed incessantly by Adam Taylor’s protest.   Adam Taylor’s act was calculated, as opposed to a simple irate move….  he borrowed a hammer from Miguel’s during this day, made his devastation, and then returned the hammer that night.  Why did he not simply remove the bolt hangers?  Why didn’t he just leave it be?  He wanted to make a statement. This is why I am writing this to the public.   As of last night, I have told this little dramatic story 30 times.  Everyone seems to feel the same about the situation, locals, friends, non-climbers, young and old.  The act was brash and completely un-called-for.  The cliff is my place of peace and excitement, not a place for destruction and annihilation.  The conclusion to all of this:  I have contacted Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Brad Weaver, Mike Doyle, and have asked them to change the name of this right variant to “50 Words For Drama“.  In doing so,  this line can be respected as a different entity and not beconfused with “Original Line”.  I am borrowing a drill today to replace the bolts and try again….  UNREAL!!! 

  • Semana Gringa II « Desce daí, doido! - [...] Fonte: 8a.nu, Joe Kinder Blog [...]

  • » Time for Change. - [...] Or rather, back … to last Friday, when I got a message from my friend Joe Kinder about some bolts getting smashed on 50 Words for Pump, a route he was trying at the Red River Gorge. Hugh Loffler originally bolted [...]

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